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By
: Ann Creevey, Picture by : Sem Vannjohn.
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The Women Hill,
or Phnom Srei, with its 211 stairs rising to the
summit, is higher than Phnom Proh.
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This sprawling
township stretching lazily along the bank of the
Mekong River has much to offer, from temples to
deep forests of rubber plantations (a legacy of
the French colonial period) to peaceful stalls along
the river where visitors can sit back and soak in
the atmosphere over a beer or fresh coconut.
Kampong Cham is at a crossroads. It is the gateway
to exotic Mondulkiri Province through Kratie, and
a port city on the mighty Mekong.
The province is Cambodias most populous, with
over 1.6 million inhabitants, and the people make
their living from fishing, rice farming and producing
a rich array of fruits in fertile orchards, including
durian, rambutans and lynches.
Flanked by populous Prey Veng Province, Kampong
Chhnang, Kampong Thom and Kratie, and bordering
Vietnam, Kampong Chams provincial capital
is just 120 kilometers north-east of Phnom Penh
along National Highway 7, which has been upgraded
and is in excellent condition. |
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The newly completed
towering bridge across the Mekong is the only one across
this powerful river in the whole country, and is expected
to open up trade between Thailand and Vietnam through
Kampong Cham.
The province is divided up into 16 districts, with 173
communes and 1,748 villages.
Kampong Cham is easy to reach.
A fast boat takes just two and a half hours, and a minibus
or pickup will cost as little as 5000 riel for a seat
and is also just a few hours' drive.
Phnom Proh and Phnom Srei
Less than seven kilometers outside of town, two hills,
each with a temple at its peak, stand facing each other.
These are Phnom Proh (Man Hill) and Phnom Srei (Woman
Hill). |
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Legend maintains
that in ancient times, women had to ask men for
their hand in marriage. Unhappy with this situation,
the women challenged the local men to a competition.
Whichever sex could build a temple on their hill
before dawn the next day would win the right to
be asked for their hands in marriage.
The two groups built furiously all night, but the
women tricked the men by building a fire and floating
a burning lantern in the sky.
The men assumed the light was the morning star and
stopped work, allowing the women to pass them and
win. And that is why men now ask women when it comes
to marriage.
The original temples were destroyed in fierce fighting
during the war, but they have been replaced, and
this is a popular picnic spot for Khmers on weekends.
The views from both temples are lovely,
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The stairs Of Woman hill
or Phnom Srei
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and Phnom Proh
is home to a band of very cheeky monkeys who entertain
visitors in a bid to charm food for themselves.
Wat Nokor
Time has taken its toll on this 11th century temple. Now
incorporated into an active, modern temple, the remaining
ruins of Wat Nokor, such as lintels and archways, have
been used in the construction of the new temple.
The alcoves and hidden shrines make Wat Nokor a peaceful,
tranquil and interesting place to wander around, and a
large reclining Buddha is a central feature.
Rubber Plantation
Across the river in Chub rubber plantation, still in use
but working at just a small fraction of its capacity,
is a reminder of French colonial times when Cambodia was
one of the region's great rubber producers.
The plantation was once owned by Michelin.
Grooves carved into the trees bark allow the white
sap to run into waiting pots, where it is collected and
processed. |
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Wat NoKor
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English
speakers may have to be content with wandering between
the straight rows of trees and contemplating the
history of this place.
French and Khmer speakers may be able to find someone
who can tell them more about this place, which was
once an important component of Cambodia's booming
economy.
Mekong River Bridge
Any local in Kampong Cham will ask what you think
of this towering structure, which was recently completed
and was inaugurated early this month.
Construction began in 1998 with Japanese funding,
and this bridge links Kampong Cham directly to Kratie
and Mondulkiri in the east and, eventually, to Vietnam.
It is the only bridge across the mighty Mekong in
the whole of the Kingdom. Previously, everything
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and everyone who
needed to cross the river had to do so by ferry.
Teuk Chha Waterfalls
Off the main road to the right at Prey Tatoeng, about
25 kilometers from town, a dirt road twists through fertile
countryside alongside canals until it crosses what is
actually a dam and reservoir, called Teuk Chha by locals.
Begun in the 1960s, destroyed under Pol Pot and
reconstructed in 1996, this beautiful, shady spot is a
favorite swimming spot for local picnic makers.
The legend of Wat Nokor, Page 9 |
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com
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