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| By
: Ann Creevey, Picture by : Nathan Dexter. |
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Once known
by the French as the Perle de la Cote d'Agate, this
charming, sleepy province is a wonderful place to
get a true feeling of Cambodia. Kampot is bordered
by Kampong Speu, Takeo, Koh Kong and Sihanoukville
provinces, with a coastline interrupted only by
the tiny municipality of Kep. The provincial capital
of Kampot Town is just five kilometers from the
sea, and wide, empty boulevards stretch towards
the lazy river that divides the town, past fine
old colonial buildings. Horses graze by the river
as the sun sets. The people are unhurried and friendly.
This is a place where time has almost stood still.
All around are attractions for the visitor - the
abandoned former resort of Bokor, caves, pagodas
and cool rapids.
In the last census, Kampot recorded a population
of 528,405 __ just over four and a half percent
of Cambodia's total population. Its eight districts
are divided up into 92 communes and 477 villages.
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The pace in the town center
is always an easy one.
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| Kampot is known
for its durian, as well as its seafood. Kampot pepper
is world famous and it also provides most of Cambodia's
locally produced salt. |
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The road to Bokor Mountain
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rough and ready road leads travelers to this
former French hill station, 1000 meters above
sea level in the Elephant Mountains. Built
in the 1920's, it remained a resort for wealthy
French and Khmers wishing to enjoy the cool
mountain air until just a couple of years
before the Khmer Rouge took power in 1975.
The proud ruins of a former casino, villas,
a hotel and a Catholic church are often shrouded
in mist, giving the place a ghostly feel.
Bokor (which means the ox's hump in Khmer)
was a strategic military stronghold until
several years ago, but is now secure actor/director
Matt Dillon shot scenes for his recent movie
here but, as in much of Cambodia, wandering
off marked paths is not advisable. The fee
to enter Bokor is now 20,000 riel ($5) for
foreigners. Recent visitors were warned by
rangers not |
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| to camp out on
the peak as tigers may occasionally stray in at night,
but very basic accommodation with park rangers can be
arranged for a small fee. Several people are now operating
tours from Sihanoukville to Bokor (such as Red Snapper
Tours) and from Kampot. Although small motorbikes can
navigate the road up, a trail bike is advisable. The views
from this rugged mountain plateau are spectacular when
the mist lifts, and there is always the slight chance
of a glimpse of rare wildlife long extinct in other provinces,
such as tigers and elephants. This is a highlight of any
visit to Cambodia. |
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Holiday makers enjoying
themselves at the Teuk Chhou Rapids.
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Cross
the main river in Kampot Town, turn right
down a wide dirt road and after about seven
kilometers you will come to one of the most
peaceful, pleasant little hideaways in the
province.
Although referred to as waterfalls by locals,
Teuk Chhou is in fact a series on sparkling
natural rapids with crystal clear water which
is always cool and fresh. A line of food stalls
satisfy picnic makers with everything from
fruit to whole roast chicken and catfish,
to banana and coconut roasted in banana leaves
(a specialty of Kampot). On the weekends,
this place is a hive of activity. But on weekdays,
you may have the place almost to yourself,
except for an occasional family arriving to
bathe. Motodops will take travelers there
for around a dollar, depending on your bargaining
skills. There is plenty of parking for cars
and motorbikes and the road there is in quite
good condition. |
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On the way
to Teuk Chhou, signs on the left of the road advertise
the reasonably modern Kampot Zoo. This privately
owned zoo is currently under renovation, but although
enclosures here are small, the animals are well
fed and it is clean.
Sun bears, tigers and a myriad of less exotic species
are on display. The entrance fee is small and it
might provide a few entertaining hours for those
wanting to catch a glimpse of some of Cambodia's
rare wildlife. |
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Kampot Durians
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| The reason you might have been
offered so much of the spiky, strong-smelling
fruit known as durian while enjoying the Teuk
Chheu rapids is because of the proximity of
the plantations, which line either side of
the road en route. Kampot durian is famous
throughout Cambodia for its flavor and sweetness.
It is deemed superior to Thai durian by Khmer
connoisseurs (Prime Minister Hun Sen among
them) and the price reflects this it can cost
double its imported counterpart. Many foreigners
do not enjoy the strong taste and smell of
this strange fruit, with its creamy yellow
flesh encased in brown spiked skin, but those
who do might find this area sells the cheapest
(and tastiest) durian in the Kingdom. |
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Sitting
by the river as the sun sets in the evening is one
of the great pleasures of a night in Kampot Town.
Although almost everything here closes by 9pm, this
sleepy town has a unique charm, enhanced by the
fine colonial architecture and boulevards. A walk
back into town to enjoy a refreshing tik-kra-lok
(a Cambodian fruit shake) and a chat with locals
out enjoying the evening air is a nice way to end
a day in this pretty province. Hotels offer basic
Chinese and Khmer dishes, and the seafood is some
of the best in Cambodia. There is an abundance of
accommodation, from very basic to air-conditioned
rooms with cable television and mini fridges. The
average cost is between $4 and $5 without air-con.
Kampot is a relaxing stop-off for travelers doing
the Phnom Penh to Kampot to Sihanoukville loop and
a place that, despite its lack of lively clubs and
all-night bars, few people want to leave. See our
travel guide inside for tips on how to get there
and what to pay. |
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com |
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