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: The Servant, Picture by : John Seow. |
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Many travelers
visit Angkor to see the magnificent Angkor Wat.
But although incredible and awe-inspiring, Angkor
Wat does not mark the start of the Angkorian Empire
begun by Jayavarman II in the ninth century.
That honor belongs to another, less visited but
very accessible site deep in the lush Cambodian
jungle the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen.
At just 42 kilometers north of Siem Reap Town, many
visitors combine a visit to Phnom Kulen with a trip
to the pink sandstone temple of Banteay Srei, the
Citadel of Women.
But Phnom Kulen is also a change of scenery for
those who have spent days looking at the impressive
lowland temples and wish to see a different, rural
Cambodia, waterfalls and forest.
In 802 AD, the mysterious King Jayavarman II proclaimed
this place and its surrounds as his empire and declared
it free of the rule of Java, and Phnom declared
it free of the rule of Java, and Phnom |
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The serene features of Cambodia's
largest reclining Buddha,
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Kulen was born
as the new dynasty's first capital. The all-weather road
leading to the mountain, whose name means Lychee Mountain
in Khmer, is easily traveled. Lush forest and sandstone
boulders alternate with the rich green of rice paddies.
There are few people on the way up the mountain. Quiet
envelopes the traveler.
The road rises gradually until it reaches the base of
the mountain, where guards charge a $20 entry fee to proceed.
Phnom Kulen is basically privately owned by military interests
and operates totally independently of the Apsara Authority
which overseas the main temples of Angkor. |
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Entry passes
for Angkor Wat are not valid here. Inside, travelers
can walk, or take motos to the the top. Those who
wish to drive their own vehicles to the top must
pay an additional parking fee. The peak of Phnom
Kulen opens out into a large, flat plain. To either
side, tall waterfalls crash down the mountain, clean
and clear and cool. Etched into the riverbed, carvings
can be seen. Brahminist yonis and lingas-on a smaller
scale than at the famous and nearby Kbal Spean,
known to foreigners as the River of a Thousand Lingas-but
still haunting, impressive and beautiful.
A mountain peak temple houses a huge reclining Buddha,
gazing serenely out from His peaceful mountain home.
This is the largest reclining Buddha in the Kingdom.
Nearby, a Buddha relic is housed in a colorful stupa.
Even in hot season, when the lowland temples swelter,
this place is relatively cool due to its high altitude.
It is worth hiring a guide while you are in Phnom
Kulen. These are often the same soldiers who man
the entrance, and know the area well. |
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The lingas carved into
the riverbed, a sign directing tourists
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The beautiful waterfalls nearby
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And, hidden
in the jungle all around the main Kulen temple complex
are gems sometimes beautifully preserved temples
which appear from dense overgrowth.
Prasat O'Thma Dap, Prasat Chrei, Prasat Neak Ta
these are among 53 temples scattered among villages
within about a 30 kilometer radius of the main mountain
of Phnom Kulen. Although these temples have been
looted, like most in Cambodia, some lintels and
statues survive and many are in quite fine condition.
The Phnom Kulen area is still mined another reason
not to stray from paths but it is considered secure
and a guide will show visitors sights few tourists
have yet seen while ensuring your safety in the
maze of paths the local villagers have carved through
the undergrowth while going about their daily tasks
of farming and hunting.
Phnom Kulen is indeed a magical place. Stay an extra
day in Siem Reap to see it. It is an unforgettable
memory of this stunning, exotic Kingdom you will
keep with you forever. |
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com
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