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Story
& Picture by : Jon Bugge.
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A devotee offers incense in
The Baksey Chamkrong Pagoda. On the right, a bas-relief
of Neang Kong Hing of the churning of the ocean
of milk fame.
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Phnom Prosethi
is actually comprised of two hills, a western and
eastern. Upon both these mounts are two distinct
temples. With close proximity to Phnom Penh and
the nearby Phnom Reab, this proves to be a very
popular picnic spot. It is not just anywhere one
can visit Angkor Wat, well at least a replica, within
20 minutes from Phnom Penh! It is possible, and
practical, to combine a visit to both Phnom Reab
and the two hills of Phnom Prosethi in one trip.
Visiting in the week provides a break from the madding
crowd and a chance to enjoy the stunning views in
relative peace.
Phnom Prosethi actually lies on a district border
division in Kandal province. The Western mountain
is in Mkaka commune, Angsnoul district. The Eastern
is in Chhvang commune, Pornhea district.
Legends and stories abound and this is evident in
the cornucopia of colourful statues commemorating
these events.
It is for this reason that a simple stroll around
the temple hills provides a fascinating insight
into |
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| the history of
the place. With several small grottos and nooks filled
with figurines of Chinese style Buddhas and Gods. There
are also examples of statuary, in every shade and hue,
which bring the legends of the place alive before your
very eyes. |
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Baksey Chamrong: a memorial
to the lifesaving bird.
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One such
famous legend is that of a large bird that rescued
a king’s abandoned child. The child was called
Baksey Chamkrong, in honour of the bird that had
shielded the baby from the heat. An old man called
Kouhe saved the child and adopted it. When it was
discovered who the child was, he took the throne.
Baksey Chamkrong ordered a Buddha statue to be built.
It was this that led to the naming of the mountain.
Originally called Phnom Isey Sethi, which means
the Mount of the Hermit Succeeding in Everything.
It had been here that Kouhe had prayed for his adopted
son to one Baksey Chamrong: a memorial to the lifesaving
bird.
day take the throne. Prosethi means success, and
this is the modern shortening of the ancient name.
There is a stupa to the King at the top of the hill.
Inside, highly coloured murals depicting scenes
from the |
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A 27-meter long Buddha is one
of the many attractions upon the Eastern hill.
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| legends and
more classic Buddhist themes. It is well worth the
climb and the Baksey Chamkrong stupa was renovated
in 1996. Monk and accha houses surround the stupa.
A beautiful meditative spot with the classic views
across the rice fields of Kandal. The huge Reclining
Buddha, which was erected as thanks after Baksey
Chamkrong took the throne, can be found on the hill.
At some 27 metres in length it provides |
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| a monumental testament
to this legend. There are some unverified reports, from
locals, that the Buddha actually grows and used to be
relatively small. Regardless of this, it is one of the
finer examples, of this style, of Buddhist iconography.
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Detail from Prasat Neang Krub
Lakh
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| This temple dates
from the sixth century and is known as The
Temple of The Ideal Girl. It is in a similar
style to the temples of Sambor Prey Kuk. The
temple has only the external walls remaining
and is an eclectic mixture of trees, original
sandstone, some large boulders and a corrugated
tin roof to protect the internal sanctuary.
The remaining external walls show some examples
of carving and sculpture, hinting at its former
grandeur. Wind, rain and the inevitable passage
of time have all taken their toll. This temple
is still active: the sanctuary is filled with
candle light and incense smoke. |
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The statue of Neang Kong
Si'im inside the temple
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The Western mountain
also boasts a Buddha. However this is a seated
Buddha and is atop a Chinese style temple.
This complex was dedicated to the Neang Kong
Si'im: a local who was famous during her life
as a charitable and generous woman. The complex
is complete with Chinese style fires for burning
of offerings and the brightly fashioned statues.
The building itself is the base for the Buddha
above: towering above the temple, shining
in a golden hue to honour the actions of this
kind woman. There is even a small wind turbine
to generate a small amount of electricity
for those who live by the temple.
This fascinating couple of temple hills provides
the ideal day trip. It is lies just off National
Route 5 in Kandal Province. It offers a scenic
journey in its own right. It is not only the
breathtaking views, but also the interesting
amalgamation of local legend and statuary,
that singles out this destination as well
worth a visit. Perhaps if you offer prayers
you will be awarded the eponymous outcome!
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com |
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