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Text
& Pictures By : Phrak Chan Thul. | | |
On
National Road Two, one can travel about 78 dusty kilometers from the hustle and
bustle of Phnom Penh to stumble upon the hill of Phnom Chiso in Takeo province.
Sitting atop the eastern side of this mound rests the ancient temple of Suryagiri,
built in the 11th century. More recently, a modern pagoda named Phnom Chiso was
built to house young and old monks. Folks with the stamina to tackle the ascent
are rewarded for their climb. The view on top of mount Chiso is simply breathtaking.
Visitors should not miss out on the opportunity to relax here after the exhausting
grind of travel. Staring into the distant |
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horizon, peace-seekers will
be renewed by the area's gorgeous scenery and tranquility. Fresh air fills the
lungs and the soul with cool calm.
For those seeking serenity, a trip to Phnom
Chiso is far less expensive to a trip to the therapist. Travelers can take a bus
from Phnom Penh to Takeo for only 4000 riel, or one dollar. Simply inform the
bus driver in advance to drop you at the junction of the road, where you will
find a moto taxi waiting
to carry you to the bottom of Phnom Chiso for just 1500 riel.
The foot of
the hill offers as many hospitable local sellers as the top. All are happy to
serve you a variety of exotic food and drink inside quaint shacks and cottages.
Hungry travelers will enjoy the grilled chicken, beloved by locals and visitors
and offered for reasonable prices. To ensure that they have stamina enough to
make the hike, most people are encouraged to eat a meal before heading off. Since
the midday sun is too hot for most climbers, many sip from coconuts or glass soda
bottles. The locals are experts at concocting energy-producing foods, and it is
a memorable treat to eat in the cool shade of a bamboo | |  | | The
ruins of the 11th century Suryagiri on Phnom Chiso. | | |
| | | |  | | Golden
statue of the lord Buddha shielded by a seven-headed dragon. | | | | |
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shack. Many local guides are
always happy to show you local spots of interest. Young smiling children are always
prepared to lead you to a restaurant or a more knowledgeable guide. Although visitors
do not have to pay these young helpers, it is always rewarding to see their grins
spread with the gift of a small sum of money.
Before visitors travel up or
down the hill, they will be advised to pray and burn incense in the small shrines
in order to be protected by the deities. Past the shrines, two paths await hikers
ready to climb the 100-meter hill, which takes about 15 minutes to conquer. The
southern path is made of a long |
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| | |  | | The
sacred pond of Tonle Om (center of picture) and the sanctuaries of Sen Thmol and
Sen Ravang as seen from Phnom Chiso. | | | |
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cement stairway of 412 steps. The northern path is about 600 meters from the southern
path and is a rougher stretch. Dirt bikes and automobiles frequently make use
of this path.
A good way to enjoy the view from all directions is to ascend
by the northern path and descend the southern stairway. Once at the top, the view
is spectacular. This short hike can transform one's vision of Cambodia.
Many
visitors also head to Phnom Chiso to explore the ruins of Suryagiri. Near Suryagiri's
main temple is a modern Buddhist Wat cared for by resident monks. Its calm atmosphere
is also popular with the locals. Visitors especially like to visit Suryagiri's
modern shrine, which houses a golden statue of the lord Buddha shielded by a seven-headed
dragon. Khmer devotees revere the shrine.
Suryagiri, constructed of laterite
and brick with carved lintels of |
| sandstone
is similar to the temples of Angkor War, Cambodia's main attraction for most foreign
tourists. Resting inside the main temple are Buddhist statues, and on many occasions
monks can be seen practicing meditation. The partially ruined walls of a 2.5 meter-wide
gallery surrounding the complex has a special charm that brings people back over
and over again.
Just to the east of Phnom Chiso are the sanctuaries of Sen
Thmol and Sen Ravang and the sacred pond of Tonle Om, which was once highly revered
by the Khmer people. Although the pond has lost much of its former glory, people
still flock from mount Chisor to pay tribute to its grand history.
Wat Phnom
Chiso offers a truly incredible experience. Some say the temple has healing qualities,
able to release people's tension. Others consider the fresh air from the hill
to be medicinal. Simply mingling with the friendly local store vendors and residents
of the area is enough to warm even the coldest soul.
Heading home, travelers
can return on the bus or take a shared taxi to Takeo province. The buses, taxis
and motorcycles also run through Tonle Bati, which offers another attractive destination
for those looking to expand their journey. Be warned about busy commutes, however.
Since residents of | | | |  | |  | | Top:
The southern path - cement stairway of 412 steps.
Bottom: The northern path
- a rougher stretch. | | |
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| | |  | | Quaint
shacks at the foot of Phnom Chiso serves a variety of food and drinks. | | | |
| Takeo
and Phnom Penh habitually travel to Phnom Chiso during festivals and holidays,
the place can get very crowded. Taxis, hired for $25, may be more comfortable
for some travelers, but they are far more expensive than the 4000 riel Takeo bus
to Phnom Penh. Adventurers may opt to cruise to Phnom Penh on a motorcycle. Regardless
of the mode of transportation, the Phnom Chiso and the entire Takeo region is
worthy of unlimited exploration. |
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Suite B8, Regency
Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom
of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033 E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com | | |
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