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Incense
and prayers should be
packed for trips past
the Yeay Mao statue in
the village of Pich Nile.
It is believed that travelers
heading along National
Road 4 to Sihanoukville's
beautiful beaches must
pay respect to the spirit
of Yeay Mao or face a
journey dotted with danger.
As legend has it, a young
woman named Mao lived
in the village of Pich
Nile, in Prei Tayueng
commune of Phnom Sruoch
district in the province
of Kampong Speu. Heeding
the call to study magic,
she left the village in
search of a wise old hermit
who lived atop the Pich
Nile Mountain. It would
be near this mountain
that the statue of Yeay
Mao ultimately would rest.
A king's two sons joined
Mao in her training with
the hermit, but it was
not just magic that the
young woman studied. She
also learned lessons of
the heart, falling in
love with the eldest of
the two princes. Outside
of the classroom, the
country was in turmoil,
as Siamese soldiers were
invading Cambodia. The
head of the Khmer army
was in dire need of a
competent soldier to lead
the fight against the
Siamese. The Khmer leader
suggested that the soldier
that prevailed in the
fighting competition would
be named army chief.
| |  | | The
idol of Yeay Mao inside
the shrine along National
Road 4. | | |
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It
was not the princes that
put up a fight, but the
ladylike Mao who defeated
all her opponents. Contrary
to society's preconceived
notions about the weakness
of women, Mao was named
chief of soldiers. As
she was preparing to leave
her quiet classroom to
face the world and serve
her nation, Mao received
a grave warning from the
hermit. The wise man told
his student that if one
man defeated her, she
would have bad karma with
every man in the country.
Mao embarked on her
journey with the hermit's
words tucked into the
corner of her mind. She
fought bravely until one
day a group of villagers
requested a duel between
Mao and her beaux. They
wondered which of the
two lovers was stronger.
Although Mao clearly was
more skilled than the
prince, she pretended
to lose out of respect
for her lover. The competition
passed without incident,
and the dueling couple
eventually married and
produced one son. After
the birth, life regained
a sense of normalcy, and
the prince asked to visit
his father. With Mao's
permission, the husband
headed off to the royal
palace. The king was so
pleased to see his son
that he forced the prince
to marry a beautiful girl
residing at the palace.
Since the king's younger
son also loved Mao, he
saw this twist of fate
as his window of opportunity.
Although he too was already
married, he abandoned
his wife to woo his brother's
spouse. Lying to Mao,
the prince said that his
brother died in the war.
He showed her a small
pack believed to be his
brother's relics. The
second son was relentless
in his admission of love
and begged for her hand
in marriage. Mao could
no longer resist the younger
prince's persuasiveness
and agreed to love her
brother-in-law. The odd
couple married and later
gave birth to a son. | | |  | | Yeay
Mao Shrine on National
Road 4 en route to
Sihanoukville | | | | |
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Soon
after, the first wife
of Mao's new husband sought
out her spouse and demanded
that he return home with
her. Surprised and angry,
Mao refused to say goodbye
to her new husband. She
cried and cried until
falling unconscious. Anger
churned inside her, but
Mao's rage sadly could
not keep the prince by
her side. He left the
woman warrior and returned
to his first love. Mao's
men abandoned her, but
she refused to abandon
her men. She still was
responsible for an army
of soldiers, and one day
she headed out to check
on their status at a remote
camp. She unwisely left
her two sons alone in
their mountaintop house.
Returning from her mission,
she saw bright red blood
staining the walls of
the house and found the
gnawed bodies of her young
sons, eaten by wild tigers.
Mao was so riddled with
grief that she nearly
lost sense of reality,
her sanity washed away
with each tear she shed.
She mourned the loss of
her sons and the desertion
of her husbands. Unable
to regain control of her
sadness and regret, Mao
decided to take her life.
As the woeful woman placed
her palm into death's
cold hand, the hermit
took pity on what had
been a beautiful life.
He used his magic to save
his former |
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student
from death. Upon waking,
Mao vowed to kill two
million of the country's
strongest men. When the
bloodletting was over,
she promised to become
a priest. Legend has it
that before entering the
priesthood, Mao cut off
the penis of every man
that ever betrayed his
wife. Believers in
this bloody fable claim
that people who have died
by the Pich Nile waterfall
along National Road 4
are the victims of Yeay
Mao's unfettered cruelty.
Mr Khiev Rith, the caretaker
of the Yeay Mao's statue,
said the woman had lived
in Pich Nile long before
he was born. Although
many believe Yeay Mao
is simply a menacing myth,
Khiev Rith said she was
a powerful woman who still
cares for National Road
4. To mark Yeay Mao's
stomping grounds, a large
shed was bought from Prei
Veng province to house
her statue in 1993. If
people come across her
shed without stopping
to pray, it is believed
that their journey will
be riddled with danger,
Khiev Rith said. He added
that believers offer bananas,
food and wooden penis
as a sign of respect.
Lily, a Kampong Speu
resident, said Yeay Mao's
spirit is not as cruel
as it was before. She
believes peace has fallen
upon the region because
Yeay Mao finally has received
enough penises. In ancient
times, worshipers also
left behind pairs of coconuts,
pairs of cows, or SlarThor,
the stem of a banana leaf
or a green banana decorated
with betel leaves, areca
nuts and flowers. Mr.
Srey yar Phout Savdy,
head of the Buddhist Institute's
Mores and Tradition Department,
said the spirit of Yeay
Mao haunts not only the
Pich Nile waterfall but
also Chakkrey Ting village
near National Road 3 in
Phnom Thvear of Kampot.
Phnom Chhay village, 15
km outside of Koh Kong
province, is watched by
another spirit, as is
San Ke village in Treoung
Khgagn commune of the
Basack district in Vietnam.
Regardless of the
validity of the myth,
the tale will remain a
permanent fixture of Khmer
culture. In a country
as economically impoverished
as Cambodia, rich stories
like the legend of Yeay
Mao are invaluable. |
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B8, Regency Square, InterContinental
Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard, Phnom Penh,
Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133
Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com
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