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By
: M. Veasnna Photos by : Sem Vannjohn.
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These women wear their
kromas for style and to protect their faces
from the sun. The scarf is a typical Khmer
calling card.
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Beneath the warm Cambodian
sun, a person's productivity relies heavily upon
the suitability of one's dress. Since little is
accomplished in blisteringly hot clothes, Khmer
people for generations have tied kromas around their
waists to work and play in cool comfort. The Khmer
scarf, woven from cotton or silk, has been a fashion
staple since Ancient times. While some claim the
thin cloth, wrapped around one's head or neck, is
used primarily to wipe the sweat from a hot face,
others say wearing a kroma is as 'Khmer' as wearing
a necktie is American.
Srey Yar Savdy, head of the Buddhist Institute's
Mores and Tradition Department in Phnom Penh said
that the kroma has had a home in Cambodia since
the first century reign of Preah Bath Hun Tean.
It is not clear when exactly the kroma hit the streets,
but it has been a symbol of the Khmer kingdom and
its people ever since.
"Nowadays, people are more particular and they
like to have some quality instead of the less expensive
kroma they used to use," said Channavy, the
co-manager of a small weaving business. She said
the demands of discerning customers have compelled
her to prepare her loom with greater care in order
to meticulously spin the cotton thread into a bobbin.
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"We
need to spin the thread in a careful way, because
if we don't it is not good for weaving. It will
roll poorly and can make the end result quite rigid
and rough," Channavy explained.
The weaver said she can make between six and eight
kromas a day, depending on the material used. She
normally uses a loom, bobbin and weaver's shuttle
to pump out the popular scarves. Women living in
the countryside often make kromas to subsidize their
income after the rice season has come and gone,
she said. In the past, looms have measured between
four meters and six meters, but recently have shrunk
to two meters, since short kromas are more comfortable
than the old-fashioned longer ones, Channavy added.
Long or short, the multi-purpose kromas can be found
in nearly every Cambodian household. Even babies
know the benefits of the colorful scarves, as kromas
are placed The Kromas also are used to shield children
from the cold or dreaded mosquitoes. Adults too
make use of the kromas in many ways, using them
to clean their bodies or wear while taking a bath.
As Cambodians head to work in the rice fields, they
can be seen wearing a kroma folded around their
head as a sun protector. The kroma has even kept
the lustful stare of young boys off the faces of
blushing girls.
While the Khmer kroma is thought to be a useful
article of clothing, it also is considered a symbol
of respect and good manners. When people head out
to visit friends, they often wear
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A food vendor wears a
kroma "out of habit" she says.
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A Khmer lady who works
in the sea wears a Kroma to protect
herself from the sun.
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a kroma around their
neck to complete their dress, much like the way
male westerners wear neckties to important events.
Although its not nearly as popular as the western
necktie, the traditional Khmer kroma appears to
have international appeal. "When foreigners
come to visit Cambodia, they sometimes pick up the
Khmer style. They take the kroma to fold around
their head like Khmer people in the countryside
do," Srey Yar Phout Savdy said. Much to the
delight of its guests, the Angkor Hotel in Siem
Reap distributes the kroma as tourists check in.
Srey Yar Phout Savdy said the guests are thrilled
to receive them and often put them on immediately.
As the kroma gains respect from visitors, it is
losing popularity amongst urban Cambodians.
"The kroma is disappearing in the city, especially
in Phnom Penh, because people think that it is out
of date for them to wear," Srey Yar Phout Savdy
said. "They instead use the towel because it
is more updated, flexible and convenient. Girls
in the city prefer to use the more colorful and
modern scarves, too."
"One reason why the kroma has lost its appeal
may be attributed to its affiliation with the Khmer
Rouge regime of the brutal communist leader Pol
Pot," Srey Yar Phout Savdy said. Between 1975
and 1979, Khmer Rouge soldiers ordered every Cambodian
to wear a kroma throughout the day and night. People
did not dare object to the fashion order, he said,
adding that even today some people are reminded
of Pol Pot's cruelty when they see the colorful
scarf. |
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Others dislike kromas for aesthetic reasons only.
Sok Sam Oeun, a 22 year-old student at NIM, laughed
at the thought of completing an outfit with a
kroma.
"Since I have been living in Phnom Penh,
I have never worn a kroma because it is out of
date," she said. "I can't fold it around
my neck to study. If I wear it, a lot of my friends
will mock me and call me a peasant."
International companies also have cramped the
kroma style, flooding the cities with cheap, modern
towels, said Ong Vong, director of the Ministry
of Culture and Fine Arts' Patrimony Department.
Ong Vong shares the concerned sentiment of Srey
Yar Phout Savdy, who said Cambodians' evolving
styles could change the face of Khmer fashion.
"If people do not wear kromas anymore, this
tradition will become extinct," he said.
Whether or not the kroma will be tied to the future
of Khmer fashion, it will forever grace the pages
of Cambodian history.
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A fisherman slips into
his kroma after a refreshing bath. The checkered
scarf serves as a towel and, later, as pajamas!
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com
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