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By:
Chiv Linna. Photos by: M. Veassna.
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Rows of these sausage
stalls line the sides of National Road 3.
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Hungry travelers rambling down National Road
Number 3 will be happy to see rows of beef sausage
hanging in storefront windows like wet clothes
out to dry. About 20 km outside of Phnom Penh,
on a road winding towards Kampot, a line of sausage
stores wait to feed the growling stomachs of the
road weary.
Like the old saying, "where there's water,
there's fish", a similar phrase may be coined
about sausage. "Where there's beef sausage,
there's sour nectar." Meat eaters often develop
an intense thirst from the salty sausage, demanding
that a good meal be followed by a good drink.
"I can't get along without it," said
Ley Det, gesturing to the glass of "sour
nectar" (Palm wine) in his hand.
A plate of beef sausage and a generous glass of
sour nectar will cost a diner just 3,000 riel.
If beer is desired, an extra fee will be charged,
but most vendors will be happy to provide the
cool suds. Both city slickers and country dwellers
are known to choke back a few links any time of
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year, but sales are highest during the Water
Festival, when hoards of party revelers crowd
city centers in search of food and fun. Sausage
also sells well during the Kathin ceremony, a
momentous event used to raise money for building
a pagoda.
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The act
of eating beef sausage not only serves to nourish
the body, but it soothes the soul as well. Sharing
a meal with friends and family is a means of strengthening
bonds old and new. Newcomers to Cambodia may get
to know the country better by sitting down at a
roadside sausage shop to enjoy the local fare. Although
upscale restaurants may be more familiar to the
sophisticated traveler, little may be learned about
Khmer culture in an air-conditioned eatery. But
sharing a warm meal with even warmer people will
draw visitors closer to understanding a foreign
land and its people. Regardless of the customer's
origin, sausage vendors are always happy to serve
a good meal to nice people.
"I have operated my business for more than
10 years. At first this place had only one seller,
but the living conditions of beef sausage vendors
got better each day. Seeing this, other villagers
started to create their own stores," said 42
year-old Davy, a long-time beef seller. Now more
then 20 stores offer slabs of beef to hungry shoppers.
Nearly all sellers purchase their meat from a wholesaler.
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A diner enjoying a meal
of beef sausage served with a side-dish
of pickled vegetable
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For Palm Wine lovers,
one plate of beef sausage can make your
drink more enjoyable.
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Kimnary is the owner of the sausage shop Mlob Sbove
Wat Slang and has more than 10 years of experience
in the craft of making sausage. With a little persuading,
she shared her special recipe for the delicious
beef links.
A handful of chopped citronella first is placed
into a mortar and ground into small pieces. The
citronella is removed and replaced by peanuts, which
almost must be ground into small pieces. Beef next
is chopped and ground with a piece of Rom Deng,
a kind of ginger. The two are mixed into a paste.
A small pig intestine is washed out and scraped
thin to be used as a casing for the beef filling.
In the past, a cow's intestine was used as casing
but was replaced because of its excessively large
size and unattractive appearance. One must then
mix the citronella, peanuts, meat, seasoning and
salt all together and stuff the mixture into the
pig intestine until full. To finish the sausage,
Kimnary finally ties a small round knot at each
end of the casing, giving the finished sausage the
look of a wrapped candy.
Since there are numerous vendors selling beef sausage,
many have had to lower their prices to stay competitive.
Still, little money is made from the laborious task.
From 5 kg of quality meat, about 5,000 sausage links
can be made. Three uncooked links sell for 100 riel
while three cooked pieces are priced at 500 riel
only. |
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Suite
B8, Regency Square, InterContinental Hotel, 294 Mao Tse Toung
Boulevard,
Phnom Penh, Kingdom of Cambodia.
Tel: (855) 23 213 133 Fax: (855) 23 213 033
E-mail:
editor@leisurecambodia.com
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